CHAPTER
07
FOODWAYS AND WATERWAYS
Seafood has long been a valuable source of sustenance, as well as cultural and community connection, for Filipinos living in Washington State.
Food gathering in and on the water has served the Filipino community since their arrival in the United States, especially during times of hardship like the Great Depression. Clam digging, fishing, and shellfish harvesting remain popular family activities to this day, and many generations of Filipino-Americans have built fond memories gathering food together along Washington's shorelines.
Outside of the home, Filipinos have worked in and led the kitchens of some of Washington's most iconic seafood restaurants and influenced the state's food scene by opening numerous Filipino restaurants.
"I found a job in Olympic Hotel... Washing dishes… Then, the culinary steward put me on the kitchen. But I wash dishes there for one year first. Then I went to train in the pantry. After I got trained in the pantry, I went to the cooking. Make their sauces…"
–Mike Castillano
Mike Castillano (second from left) worked as a chef at Ivar's for more than 40 years, starting at the fish bar on the Seattle waterfront and going on to train dozens of other cooks.
Mike Castillano, A local legend
After a period of working in the sawmills of Grays Harbor county, Mike Castillano (pictured below, front row, second from left) found his way to cooking. He eventually became the right-hand man for Ivar Haglund, owner of Ivar’s, one of Seattle’s most iconic restaurants. Throughout his 40-year career, Mike was also a beloved cook for the Filipino community.
Mike Castillano: He Fed Both Ivar and Seattle's Filipino Community
Joe Haberstroh writes about Mike after his death.
FEEDING OUR COMMUNITY
During the hard times of the 1930s, Filipinos were resourceful and supplemented their food by fishing, squidding, digging for clams and oysters, gathering mussels and snails, and harvesting seaweed. Enterprising individuals collected castoffs such as salmon bellies, heads, and tails from Seattle's Pike Place Market and used them to create tasty, inexpensive meals to feed those in need.
Family Food Traditions
Dorothy Cordova recalls annual family trips to the Pacific coast in Washington to dig clams and often share the meal together.
"My godfather, Herman Pulanco... introduced me to fishing on the waterfront piers. We didn't use traditional rods and reels but fishing line coiled around Carnation condensed milk cans."
–Maria Castillano
Families passed down lots of traditions and skills, including how to fish. Here, Maria Castillano recalls fond memories of her uncle Herman Pulanco taking her fishing on various piers in the Seattle area.
MEET CYNTHIA MEJIA-GIUDICI
Growing up, Cynthia Mejia-Guidici spent Saturdays fishing with her family in Mukilteo. They sold their catch to friend Uncle Ignacio who would use it to make a popular Filipino fish stew called sinigang na isda for his restaurant.
Cynthia Mejia-Giudici shares a childhood memory of weekly family outings to fish in Mukilteo, Washington.
Crabbing in Anacortes
Lita Foster shares stories about her family’s crabbing outings in Anacortes.
Many Filipinos grew up learning how to gather food, including clams and other shellfish, along the shore. Today, lots of families continue the tradition for both sustenance and fun.
